Don’t Panic!

The upcoming ban on TPO and HEMA in the EU is mainly a precautionary move, not a cause for alarm. When handled correctly, products with these ingredients have historically been safe to use. The nail industry is just moving toward cleaner, more sensitive-skin-friendly formulas. 

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Why This Matters Now

Beginning September 1, 2025, the EU will prohibit the use of TPO and HEMA in nail products. 

This happened because TPO was classified as a CMR 1B substance (meaning it may pose cancer or reproductive risks). Under EU cosmetic law, any ingredient with that classification must be removed from cosmetics unless it receives an exemption and TPO did not.

At the same time, HEMA wasn’t banned, it wasn’t banned completely because it is not classified as a CMR (carcinogenic/mutagenic/reprotoxic) ingredient like TPO. But it is a well-known allergen, which is why the EU tightened the rules around it.

It is now heavily regulated. Products containing HEMA must:

• Be labeled “For Professional Use Only”

• Include warnings about possible allergic reactions

• Avoid consumer-targeted DIY formats

Basically: pros can still use it, but it requires careful handling and clear labeling.

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What Are HEMA and TPO?

• HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate):
  A common monomer used in gels for strong adhesion, durability, and a smooth finish.

  • Risks: Known as one of the top allergens in nail products, it can trigger contact dermatitis, eczema, and swelling of the skin.

• TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide):
  A photo-initiator that helps gels cure efficiently under LED/UV lamps.
  

  • Risks: The EU removed TPO from cosmetics starting Sept. 1, 2025 due to its CMR 1B classification, which automatically disqualifies it from cosmetic use.

Tip 👉 Always review ingredient labels and SDS sheets so you know what’s in your products.

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EU vs. U.S. Rules vs. UK

• In the EU:

  • TPO: Completely prohibited in cosmetic products as of Sept 1, 2025.

  • HEMA: Allowed, but restricted to professional use with specific labeling and warnings.

• In the U.S. & UK:

  • Both TPO and HEMA are still permitted.

  • However, many brands are reformulating anyway to match global trends and reduce allergy concerns.

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Should You Avoid HEMA/TPO?

• If you’ve had allergic reactions or are prone to skin sensitivities, absolutely.

• DIY users/home applications benefit most from HEMA-free gels since accidental skin contact is common.

• If you’ve never had an issue, there’s no immediate danger, but this shift is a good reminder to review your product choices and make changes if you prefer a safer option.

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Trade-Offs With HEMA-Free + TPO-Free Formulas

• Adhesion & Strength: Without HEMA, wear time and toughness may vary by brand.

• Curing Time: Without TPO, certain gels may take a bit longer or require different lamp settings.

✨ The good news: 2025 formulas are SO much more advanced and many brands perform just as well as traditional gels now.

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Comparing with Other Nail Systems

• Acrylics: Use different monomers (like MMA or PMMA). They avoid HEMA/TPO but come with their own risks.

• Dip Powder: Often HEMA-free, but always check the label. Some still include similar monomers. HEMA-free dip activators are available too.

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HEMA-Free Soft Gel Options

• Apres: Offers a Sensitive GEL-X line free of HEMA. Their reformulated top coat is now HEMA-free as well.

• OPI — Intelli-Gel and GELevate Builder Gel lines are fully HEMA-free and TPO-free.

• Cre8tion: Hema Free Semi-Sheer  Gel Colors

• Cre8tion: Has a Hema-free Builder Gel in a Jar (low-heat)

• LeChat: Provides HEMA-free base and top coats.

• Current Available Items Here

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Tips for Nail Pros

For U.S. Techs

• Review SDS sheets to see whether your products contain HEMA or TPO.

• Expect clients to ask more questions as this becomes mainstream news.

• Try new formulas gradually, especially if you rely on them for professional longevity.

• Explain to clients that this is a safety update — not a recall or emergency.

For EU Techs

• Start testing HEMA-free/TPO-free systems now so you’re fully ready.

• Compare performance across brands (cure times DO vary without TPO).

• Talk to clients early and frame this as a step toward more skin-friendly services.

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✅ Bottom line: There’s no need to panic, the nail world is evolving, not collapsing. Tons of brands are already ahead of these rules, and the new formulas are performing better every year. Whether you’re a salon pro or a DIY girlie, choosing products that support comfort and long-term nail health is always the right move.

 

Reference Links:

• https://www.hpra.ie/news-events/news/article/tpo-added-to-european-union-list-of-prohibited-ingredients
• https://single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu/sectors/cosmetics/tpo-nail-products-questions-answers_en
• https://www.marieclaire.co.uk/beauty/hema-free-nail-polish
• https://wellnesspulse.com/health-trends/gel-nails-tpo-ban-europe/